Gryphon IV Maintenance Log 2012
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|| Winterization 2012 Checklist || Winter Projects 2012 - 2013 ||
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Sunny, 48F. It's been a mild winter so far! Not much snow. Time to get started getting Gryphon ready. Had built a custom enclosure for the stereo over the Winter. Installed over the hanging locker. Almost done replacing the worn out brown foam trim in cabin. Used 3.8" teak quarter round molding from Buck Woodcraft, stained lightly with Minwax 233 English Chestnut stain followed by two coats of satin polyurethane. One 1 inch piece to go!
Sunny, 50F. Finished replacing trim in cabin. Upgraded the black and white Raytheon RL70RC Radar/Chartplotter (part # M92670) with a Raymarine color RL70CRC unit (part # M92735). A very nice improvement! However, the color unit is 3" deeper than the B/W one. Ordered some teak to design an extension for the backing plate of the enclosure at the Nav table. Should look pretty good when done. Serviced sea cocks in V-berth (black water pump out), head (intake), and port cockpit scupper; lubricated with Mercury Quicksilver anti-corrosion grease (SKU 802867Q 1). Unfortunately, dropped the dog washer for the head intake seacock into the bilge under the floor. Will try to retrieve later and complete the job Have ordered silicone bronze washers (5/8" ID, 1 1/2" OD) from McMasters-Carr in case the original part cannot be recovered. Touched up a few scratches on the cabin ceiling with Interlux Goldspar Satin 60 varnish. Removed 3/4" ID hose from head intake for replacement.
Sunny, 25F. Windy! Sheila and I first enjoyed the February "Blizzard Brunch" at the club. Removed the cabin curtains to use as models for new ones from Seamstress Sheila! Finished spot sanding the starboard hull bottom. Too cold to finish the port side!
Sunny, 43F. Stanley's crew had started with the cutlass bearing replacement. Prop, shaft, bearing, and packing gland now removed from the boat. Finished prep sanding port side. Serviced seacock for starboard cockpit drain. Filled a few small depressions around anchor locker drain and black water through hull with Marine Tex.
Sunny, 40F. Sanded Marine Tex repairs made earlier. Spot treated any exposed gel coat below waterline with Interlux 2000E. Initiated repairs on several gouges to hull using West Marine non-laminating (part # 12953873) white waxed gel coat tinted with a spec of yellow. Surface prep first with MEK.
Sunny, Very Windy, 40F. Stanley's yard finished installation of the new cutlass bearing, drive shaft and re-packed gland. The set screw on the starboard side was in OK stern tube threads. Coated set screw with Loctite blue before tightening. Threads on the port side are worn out. Will repair these with epoxy. Lightly sanded Interlux epoxy treated areas on hull from last week; applied a second coat of epoxy barrier coat. When barrier coat had just dried, spot treated hull with Interlux Micron Extra. Applied a second coat of white waxed gel coat tinted with a spec of yellow to complete filling a few remaining depressions on hull.
Sunny, 45F. Replaced head intake hose with 3/4" ID Trident Flex 100-250 hose. Re-drilled port side stern tube set screw hole to cutlass bearing with 5/16" bit. Sprayed a 1/4-20 bolt with WD-40. Coated bolt with West System 105 epoxy thickened with 404 filler. Taped bolt in place to set. Hope the WD40 will serve as a release agent.
Cloudy, 50F. Finished servicing head intake sea cock. Cleaned stern with TSP solution; allowed to dry and touched up lettering with Sheffield Super Bright gold enamel and Interlux 316 Dark Blue striping paint. Finished minor gel coat repairs on hull. Epoxy plug in stern tube to hold cutlass bearing port side set screw failed. Cleaned out again and re-epoxied. Will drill and tap; likely at another spot.03/10/2012
Cloudy, 40F. Re-sanded the epoxy repair to the stern tube. Drilled and tapped a new 1/4-20 set screw hole 120 degrees apart (at 330 degrees) from the one on the starboard side (at 90 degrees). Also dimpled the bearing. The logic is that when the set crews are 90 to 120 degrees apart, the set screws force the cutlass bearing against the shaft log and provide three points of contact. The combined friction points between the bearing and the shaft log prevents the bearing from moving fore or aft or rotating. Coated set screw with Loctite blue before tightening. Finished sanding prop in preparation for anti-fouling. Treated exposed gel coat on stern tube below with Interlux 2000E.
Cloudy, 52F. Painted bottom with a single coat of Interlux Micron Extra thinned ~ 5% with Brush Ease 433. A few spots left to touch up next time. Stanley's will do under the stands on launch day.
Cloudy, 60F. Finished up bottom paint. Removed Winter shrink wrap. Re-painted 2/3 of boot stripe on port side (Interlux Brightside 316 Dark Blue). Installed CAMP C3 1" ID donut collar zinc anode on shaft.
Cloudy, 50F. Sheila and Jan helping. Took off the frame for the shrink wrap. The RL70CRC is deeper than the RL70RC; installed the modified and re-finished teak trim/backing plate for the custom enclosure.
Cloudy, 50F. Started bringing cabin cushions to boat. Re-painted cove stripe on port side (Interlux Brightside 316 Dark Blue). Spray painted prop with 3 coats of Pettit zinc coat barnacle barrier. Mixed 100% silicone caulking ~ 1:1 with a 50/50 paint thinner/MEK. After mixing well, medium syrup consistency. Pained a thin coat over the zinc spray treated prop. We'll see if this helps keep the prop cleaner.
Sunny, 52F. Re-painted cove stripe on starboard side (Interlux Brightside 316 Dark Blue). Replaced accent striping on port side with red 1/2" trim from Linear Designs, Mo. Sanded and touched up Cetol Marine on port rub rail. Picked up mainsail (now with full battens and hull number) and canvas at Thurstons.
Cloudy, 50F. Sheila helping. Applied a second coat of Cetol Marine to touch up spots on port rub rail. Washed port topsides with Starbrite Boatwash. Cleaned port hull with Collinite # 920 Fiberglass Boat Cleaner using a variable speed buffer equipped with a 3M Superbuff Buffing Pad (#05703). Next, waxed port topsides with Collinite's # 885 Fleetwax using a 3M Superbuff III Polishing Pad (#05705). Re-rigged all halyards.
Sunny, 58F. Replaced accent striping on starboard side with red 1/2" trim. Polished and waxed stern with Collinite products. Mounted AIS receiver. Flushed and filled water tanks. Installed quarter berth cushion. Vacuumed interior. Lightly sanded under starboard settee; applied a single coat of Interlux Goldspar Satin 60 varnish. Briefly ran the diesel for the first time this season. Start up sequence coming out of Winter layover; check oil (oil and filter replaced in the Fall), set decompression levers to "reduced compression" position, throttle to lowest rpm position, turn over engine for 15 seconds (to lubricate internal components), wait 15 seconds, turn over engine for 15 seconds again, set decompression levers to "run" position, throttle to ~1/8, start engine and adjust rpm to 800-1000 rpm. Ran for only a few minutes since no water.
Sunny, 75F. Washed starboard topsides, polished and waxed as above. Applied a second coat of varnish under starboard settee. Removed leaking pressure relief valve from 1999 Isotherm "Regular" Type 0220 hot water heater. The Raymarine RL70CRC resets itself intermittently when loaded with the (2010) C-MAP C301 NT+ chip. It is OK, albeit temperamental, with the older (2002) C312.04 chip (Cape Cod and Long Island).
A replacement Isotherm "Regular" hot water heater safety valve (4 bar) on order from Isotherm-parts.com. Phil at Jeppesen explained that the 2002 NA-C312.04 C-Map chip has an 8 Mb capacity. The C prefix denotes an NT+ format. After 2006, the NT+ chip format was increased to 16 Mb. The 16 Mb format had additional data and was used in the Raymarine Plus series (e.g. RL70CRC Plus). These units have a faster processor, more internal memory and HSB2 support. This revised format simply has too much information on a single chip for the original RL70CRC internal memory and processor speed, which is why my unit hangs or resets. The original 8 Mb NT+ chip needed for that older RL70CRC is no longer supported. However, NT format chips (which predate the NT+ format and have less area coverage per chip) are still available. To get the same coverage as the NT+ C312.04, two NT format cartridges would be needed. For Cape Cod to Block Island only, the part number is NA-B-323. For Long Island only, the part number is NA-B-324. Ordered the NA-B-323 for this season.
Cloudy, 65F. Installed NA-B-232 C-Map chip in RL70CRC. Works as advertised. Installed 4 bar safety valve on hot water heater. Water pressure from Jabsco pump (nominal 40 psi) opens this one as well. Will investigate further. Touched up outer starboard rub rail with Cetol Marine. All set for launch date next week!
The freshwater pump is a Jabsco Par Max 4 (# 30620-0012). It has a 40 PSI pressure switch. Given that the water heater pressure relief is a nominal 56 PSI, the tolerance of these spring loaded devices may overlap. The standard switch (Jabsco # 37121-0010) cuts in at 25 PSI and shuts off at 40 PSI. The low pressure switch (Jabsco # 44814-1000) cuts in at 10 PSI and shuts off at 20 PSI. Ordered a low pressure switch.
Sunny, 50F. Launch Day! Replaced Jabsco fresh water pump switch. Ran diesel to charge batteries. Installed cockpit canvas.
Sunny, 60F. Adjusted freshwater pump switch turn on pressure. Hanked on both 135 headsail and mainsail. Rigged new sail cover. Re-filled fresh water tank. Lightly sanded and applied a final coat of varnish under starboard settee. Repaired cockpit drinks holder.
Sunny, 55F. Installed new Sunbrella covered foam tubes on the stern safety lines made by Sheila. Replaced impeller in the Johnson F4B-903 10-24509-01 water pump using the 09-810B-01 kit. Set up the Avon inflatable at the BYC dinghy dock. Began installed of new lazy jacks using a kit from EZ-Jacks purchased for our Pearson 26. Will next have to go up the mast to install a set of cheek blocks above the spreaders for the control lines.
Cloudy, 55F. Avon inflatable and Tohatsu 3.5A now at the club dinghy dock.
Sunny, 75F. There was a weepy fuel line fitting near the Racor. Disassembled the fittings from fuel line to Racor; cleaned off old sealant. Re-sealed threads on fittings with Permatex #3. Bled fuel system. Replaced CNG tank. At hull speed, checked temperature at stuffing box with handheld laser IR thermometer; 106 F. Yanmar ignition switch has broken; removed unit from Type B bezel.
Sunny, 80F. Replaced
ignition switch (Yanmar part # 124070-91250).
Sunny, 80F. Yanmar 2GM20F coughed and stopped while motor saiing hard on the wind. Would not bleed at secondary; suspected clogged filters. Replaced the Racor R20T (10 micron). Bled system; engine restarted. Replaced 2GM20F secondary fuel filter (Yanmar part # 104500-55710) and filter housing O-ring (Yanmar part #24341-000440) once back on mooring.
Sunny, 95F. Repaired broken Racor 230R primer pump assembly (part # RK 20025). Redid all fuel line threaded fitting connections at Racor with Permatex #2. Several had been sealed with teflon tape which is not appropriate for fuel systems. Replaced flapper valve (Raritan part #1228CW) and joker valve (Raritan part #C253) on PHII head.
Sunny, 85F. Replaced
anchor chain (10 feet of 3/8" West Marine G40, part
#6972939). Replaced CNG tank to have a full one for the BYC
Summer Cruise. Still dealing with aftermath of engine
quitting. Rented a portable 12V fuel polishing unit from DePaul Diesel
Service; Algae-X TK-180, nominal
3 gpm. The unit was equipped with a Goldenrod 496-5 water
block filter (15 micron rating).
Fuel tank half full (~10 gallons). After 15 minutes of
operation, vacuum rose to 25 psi.
Drained the bowl (some sediment and ~ 1 tbsp water), replaced the
filter. Continued polishing for 45 minutes; with new filter,
vacuum rose to and remained steady at 6 psi. Filled remainder
of tank with fresh fuel; added a shot of ValveTech biocide.
Topped off fresh water tanks; pumped out holding tank, washed deck.
Cloudy, 60F. Boat
out of water and on-stands. Brought
ladder over. Several trips to bring rest of the cabin
cushions and other gear home along with the Avon inflatable.
Disconnected head intake. Pumped ~ 1 gallon AF into head;
pumped bowl nearly dry. Added 1 gallon of AF to forward water
tank. Bypassed HW heater. Drained HW
tank. Drained remainder of water in HW tank by attaching and
blowing into short length of hose at potable water inlet.
Drained AF from forward tank into cabin tank. Ran all H/C
water lines (head, cabin, deck shower) until AF coming out.
Added two more gallons AF to cabin tank; flushed all water lines
again. Disconnected raw water intake. Ran engine
for 5 minutes taking fresh water into raw water intake from a
bucket. Pumped out engine oil. Changed oil filter
(Yanmar part # 119305-35151). Refilled oil with 2 1/4 quarts
of Shell Rotella
T3 15-40W. Started engine and drew ~ 2 more gallons fresh
water, then ~ 3 gallons of -50F AF. Made quite a mess with
the hand operated oil transfer pump. Need a better solution
for next year! Cleaned barnacles from hull; removed main
Sunny, 60F. Back from a two week business trip to China! Installed the adjustable framing brackets (DRB Innovators), winter frame hoops and ridge pole. Flushed Nissan 3.5 with fresh water.
Completed winter frame; boat ready for shrink wrap.
Sunny, 50F. Cleaned water
line and hull
stains using Marykate
Charged batteries. Removed Raritan PHII head; brought home
for re-build. Removed waste line from head to
Y-valve. Not really calcified which was
encouraging. Will also replace 1.5" RC Marine (Forespar)
anti-siphon after Y-valve.
11/17/2012Sunny, 65F. Cleaned platform under head with CLR.
Totals: Tanqueray 10 -
2 , Campari - , Rum - 1 , Fuel - 28.8
Log; 865.8 (042912), 960.1 (0915212),
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